The restaurant's role as a place for the exhibition and treatment of individual weaknesses, however, necessitated a new sense of the menu: Restaurant menus, as we know them today, are a relatively new phenomenon. This book contains far more information about the origin and history of the menu than can be paraphrased here. Cookbooks recommended them and chefs in wealthy households composed them, but all the items on the menu were brought to the table in the course of the meal. Eight potted meats and vegetables and sixteen hot hors-d'oeuvre. Food historians tell us they were a "byproduct" of the French Revolution. We have seen that between the sixteenth century and the seventeenth, fewer course came to be served at aristocratic tables.
The number of courses, and the number of dishes served at each course, are period and meal dependant. Others are defined by their position and function in the sequence Sixteen entrees of fine meats. The final service was our modern dessert, with fruits, compotes, jams, biscuits, macaroons, cheeses, petits fours and sweets as well as ices. Doubtless, not all the dishes which figured in the five obligatory courses which made up the gala banquets were perfectly executed, nor were they as variet as they should have been. In a restaurant, the ostentations potlatch of baroque expenditure was replaced by the equally conspicuous and significant economy of rationalized calculation. At a large, formal dinner, the first service could contain anything up to a hundred dishes. Cambridge MA] p. Eight important intermediate dishes called broths. We have seen that between the sixteenth century and the seventeenth, fewer course came to be served at aristocratic tables. Some are defined by aspect and mode of preparation Cookbooks recommended them and chefs in wealthy households composed them, but all the items on the menu were brought to the table in the course of the meal. In general, these remained untouched, for they were more to please the eye than the appetite and could be anything from a vast mille-feuille to a Nerac terrine, a heap of crayfish or a blue carp. Restaurant menus, as we know them today, are a relatively new phenomenon. Restaurants had printed menus because they offered their customers a choice of unseen dishes By the mere presence of a menu, the restaurant's style of service demanded a degree of self-definition, and awareness and cultivation of personal tastes, uncalled for by the inn or cookshop Food historians tell us they were a "byproduct" of the French Revolution. Nevertheless, there were many of them, if one may judge from the menu of the dinner offered by Mme. Eight pates or cold meat and fish dishes and sixteen raw salads, with oil, cream and butter. Menon's Cuisiniere bougreoise, published in , offers one three course menu and two four-course menus, which also differ in how the courses are distributed. But their number was far from fixed in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The Roast centerpiece of the meal Second Entremets cooked vegetables, fruit Dessert cakes, pastries, etc. Examples of 12 course menus are rare, perhaps suggesting they are not "standard" at all. Twenty-four different kinds of pastries--twenty-four jars of raw fruit--twenty-four dishes of sweetmeats--preserves, dried and in syrup and jams. Grimod de La Reyniere describes such a meal in his Almanach des gourmands: If you need more details please ask your librarian to help you find a copy.
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